Grand Tetons – Part 1 – Pick-up and a Pop-up

Matt and I have been trying to get reservations at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon for years through the lottery system. In December, I happened to check the website and spotted a cancellation for two nights in July. I grabbed it immediately and we kicked off our training since this hike has nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain.

Our original plan was to camp at the North Rim for one night, hike 13 miles down the North Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch, stay for two nights, then climb out via the steep 7-mile South Kaibab Trail. But on July 4th, a lightning-sparked wildfire broke out on the North Rim. It’s still burning and our Phantom Ranch stay was rescheduled. Disappointed, we turned to my trusty National Parks guidebook and found the author’s highest-rated hike in the Grand Tetons: Paintbrush Canyon to Cascade Canyon Loop.

All the park campgrounds were full, so we took our chances at Atherton Creek Campground in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. It’s first-come, first-served, and by some miracle, we pulled in just in time to grab the last site. We settled in and braced ourselves for what would be a monster of a hike the next day, one that I was honestly a little intimidated by.

We hit the String Lake Trailhead at 6:22 a.m., packs full and spirits high. The trail began gently, meandering along the lake, but as we entered Paintbrush Canyon, the elevation began to climb. Looking back, we could see views of both String Lake and Jackson Lake behind us.

From miles 3 to 6, the trail climbed steadily through dense forest and into rocky terrain until we reached the stunning alpine basin of Holly Lake. We took a much-needed break, ate our first sandwiches, and took in the view. Just as we got back on the trail, we spotted a fox carrying his kill, a pine marten. He was unbothered by our presence, although I moved on when things got a bit graphic, but Matt caught it on video if you’re curious.

Past Holly Lake, the trail became far more challenging. We powered up steep switchbacks of loose scree and crossed two snowfields before finally reaching Paintbrush Divide at 10,700 feet. It was tough, and at one point, I actually fell near the top. However, the panoramic views of the Teton Range and Paintbrush Canyon made the effort worth it.

From the divide, we began descending into the North Fork of Cascade Canyon. Waterfalls cascaded down cliffs, and Lake Solitude, cradled by dramatic peaks, appeared like a hidden gem. This view was definitely my favorite part of the hike. We hiked down the switchbacks to the lake, took off our boots, soaked our tired feet, and ate more snacks. At this point, we’d hiked 11 miles with 8 more to go.

From Lake Solitude, the trail was in between towering granite walls, and we tried to pick up the pace. Along the way, we had incredible wildlife encounters including three black bears and one grizzly. There weren’t many other hikers as we moved steadily around the west side of Jenny Lake.

Finally, after 19.9 miles, we arrived back at the truck. We were tired, dirty, sweaty, and exhilarated. If you’ve been following our adventures, you already know where we went next: straight to the pizza place. We celebrated with two whole pizzas and ice cream before heading back to our trailer to recover from one of the most epic hikes we’ve ever done.