All Posts

Cuyahoga National Park

Cuyahoga National Park lies between Cleveland and Akron, Ohio. Cuyahoga’s main attraction is the history of the Ohio and Erie Canal, which is fed by the Cuyahoga River. The canal opened in 1827 and provided transportation for traders and settlers. By the twentieth century, it was considered the most polluted river in the United States. In fact, the river was so polluted that it had 13 fires, the last of which was in 1969. At this point, public outcry was so great that a conservation effort was launched. In 1974 the Cuyahoga Valley became a National Recreation Area and in 2000 it was named a National Park.

We began our exploration of the park at the Boston Store Visitors Center. After learning a bit about the park, we hiked the Ledges Trail, an easy 2-mile loop. The kids, noticing the easily accessible cliffs above the trail, tracked our every movement and had a wonderful time sneaking up on us. Next we made our way to the most popular attraction in the park, Brandywine Falls. It was just a short walk to see the 60 foot waterfall, which was beautiful, but did not compare to some of the other natural wonders we had seen out west. We ended our Cuyahoga experience at the Canal Exploration Center in the north end of the park. Here we were able to learn a lot about how the canal was created, the lock system that was used, and what life was like when the canal boats were at their peak. We also learned that the canal helped Ohio financially, which allowed the state to lay down more railroad track than any other state. Ironically, the railroad put the canal boats out of business due to their speed and comfort. Although our time at Cuyahoga was brief, it was an interesting park with a checkered past. Thankfully, the park and river are recovering significantly each year and will be available to future generations to enjoy.

Ledges Trail
Eli looking up at the canyon wall
Brandywine Falls

Chicago – because cities are fun too

After Badlands South Dakota we didn’t have any firm plans for the days heading home. As we entered the east, the weather became much more humid and rainy so we started looking for other kinds of attractions. We decided to hit a couple of museums in downtown Chicago and grab some Chicago style pizza. Parking an RV in a busy city can be daunting, however, we found the McCormick Convention Center bus lot that offered all day parking near the museum district. This was perfect! We could pull the pop up right into downtown and walk to the museums.

As we walked along the Lake Michigan waterfront, our kids marveled at the tall buildings, trains, fancy boats and sports arenas. It reminded us that we have been living in a very small pop up in remote places for several weeks. Our first stop was Chicago’s famous Field Museum, which has a very large dinosaur collection. Eli ran to the first large skeleton he could see the Patagonian Titanosaur, the largest land animal to walk the earth. He didn’t stop there, searching frantically for his favorite dinosaur, the Mosasaurus. There was also a special exhibit for Antarctic dinosaurs which showed how scientists travel to Antarctica and dig for these fossils. We ended our visit to the Field Museum with a 3D movie telling the story of the most famous dinosaur Sue, a T-Rex. She is a nearly complete skeleton that was found in The Badlands.

Our next stop was the American Writers Museum, which opened in 2017. This museum celebrates American words and writers. We spent a lot of time reading excerpts written by Flannery O’Connor, Mark Twain, Mary Louise Alcott, Emily Dickinson, John Muir and Abraham Lincoln. There were many hands on activities including typing on old typewriters, word waterfalls, and touchscreens with word games. They had a whole interesting section devoted to Frederick Douglas. Sam loved the museum and the word waterfall that went with it.

After the museums we ducked out of the rain into Giordano’s to try some authentic Chicago pizza. Our waiter explained that our pizza would take a minimum of 1 hour to bake but it did not disappoint! While Eli ate a footlong subway sandwich, the rest of us indulged in deep-dish deliciousness. It was a fabulous way to finish a fabulous day in the Windy City!

The Field Museum

 

Titanosaurus
Mosasaurous

 

The American Writers Museum
PIZZA

Badlands National Park

By Sam

I was expecting to loathe the Badlands. I thought it would be dry and dull and full of despair, just like the desert. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Once we arrived at our campground, our first order of business was to celebrate Eli’s 10th birthday by sticking candles in a chicken patty like a cake. As Mom said, “nothing says happy 10th birthday like a chicken patty.” At sunset, we went on a drive through the prairie to look for animals, and even though we saw a herd of magnificent big-horned sheep, the beauty of the landscape stole our attention. The sun was the color of a ripe nectarine, and hung smoldering and casting shadows in the sky. It set the strange rock formations and hills aglow. The next day, we hiked a couple trails that wove through the hills of rock and cliffs, and explored the visitor center. Even though we didn’t stay long in the Badlands, the sights and scenery convinced me that it would not join my list of Most Despised National Parks (hint: all of them are in the desert and give me rashes), in fact, I rather enjoyed our jaunt there.

Samantha and Eli at sunset
The Yellow Mounds
Badlands
We finally saw bighorn sheep!
Korin hiking down the very long Notch Trail ladder

Wind Cave National Park / Mount Rushmore

The Black Hills of South Dakota let us explore Wind Cave National Park and Mount Rushmore National Monument. We started our exploration with a candlelight tour of Wind Cave, which simulated what it would have been like to explore the cave as visitors did in the 1890s. Sixteen-year-old Alvin McDonald was the earliest explorer of the cave. He mapped several miles of the cave and left a detailed daily journal of what he found. The prominent features in the cave are boxwork, popcorn and frostwork. We weren’t allowed to take any pictures on this two-hour, moderately strenuous tour, but hopefully we will remember how intricate the features were. Following our cave tour we decided to drive around and look for wild animals in the park. After many miles of driving around the rolling grasslands, we saw pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, coyote and many, many bison.

From there we headed to Mount Rushmore. I was really looking forward to seeing the memorial and when we arrived, Eli became extremely excited. At first we didn’t understand why he was so elated. It turned out that he didn’t realize Mount Rushmore was the mountain with president faces carved into it and was expecting to see just another mountain! We visited the museum and walked the trail to see the presidents but unfortunately, just as the night lighting program was about to begin there was an plethora of lightning in the near distance and an impending storm. They cancelled the program but still illuminated the faces of the presidents who represented the birth of the nation, expansion, unification, and conservation. We had a fabulous time in the beautiful black hills seeing the animals, Wind Cave and Mount Rushmore!

Wind Cave National Park
Samantha at the natural cave entrance
Bison
Mount Rushmore
Our family at Mount Rushmore

The Bighorn

Most of the destinations we picked for this trip were ones that Korin and I had dreamed of visiting. I lobbied to visit the Bighorn River in eastern Montana because of a great trout fishing experience I had with my brother-in-law two years ago. The Bighorn River, just below the Yellowtail Dam in the Crow Reservation is one of the great trophy trout rivers in the lower 48. I wanted to recreate the experience I had for Eli, who is just getting into fishing. Unfortunately for us, the fishing was a bit slow by Bighorn standards. By any other standard though, we did great. Eli landed several trout, two of which were (Rainbow and Brown) in the 20 inch range (didn’t get pics of these monsters of those because we were wading the river). At one point, Eli was casting his classic rooster tail spinner into a nice pool and called me over because he thought he was stuck on a rock. I told him to whip the rod a few times and it should come loose. No dice. So, I walked over, took the rod and his “rock” started swimming away. Eli took over again, and walked down the bank to land (and release) a large whiplashed brown trout!

To escape the heat of afternoon, we took a ride up to the Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center which is run by the National Park Service. Wow, what a step back in time! It was clean and informative, but it hadn’t been updated since the dam was built in 1968. The vintage dam construction movie was as interesting because it shown a huge spotlight on what was important and valued in the 60’s. Societal “progress” was measured by the volume of concrete that could be placed in a single day by cigar smoking men with “strong hands cunning minds” to impound the wild Bighorn river to create a huge lake in Bighorn Canyon. How times have changed in just one generation. Today, the electricity and water generated by the Yellowtail Dam is sold by the Crow Nation. The dam is also largely responsible for the great trout fishery downstream. It is the cool tailwaters released from the dam that allow these trout to thrive in the heat of summer.

While at the visitor center, we overheard a local mention that Bighorn Lake was Montana’s best kept secret. Curious, we took the 10 mile drive to Ok-A-Beh marina, where, the landscape changed from gently sloping grassy hills to red-rock canyon cliffs up to 1000 feet high. It was a splendid surprise. Most of the canyon can only be seen from the lake, so we rented a pontoon boat. We rounded the marina, and were stunned by contrast of deep green ponderosa pines clinging to red rock, while our boat glided effortlessly along the glassy surface of Bighorn Lake. Because it is on the Crow reservation, there are no structures on the lake. It is a pristine landscape. We explored the Black Canyon portion of the lake by boat, which was much easier than exploring the Black Canyon of the Gunnison by foot! And, with a stroke of luck, the smallmouth bass were biting. We had fun landing these little fighters with the canyon walls towering above our boat. We agreed if we had to do the visit again, we would have devoted at least another day to exploring the Bighorn Canyon. We look forward to coming back!

Eli fishing on the Bighorn River.
Eli with a nice brown trout.
A brown trout gives Eli an unexpected kiss before being released.
Sam and Eli take in the views of the Black Canyon arm of the Bighorn Canyon.
Eli, Sam and Korin cruising through the Bighorn Canyon.
Matt and Eli cast for smallmouth bass in Bighorn Canyon Lake.

Glacier, Goats, and Bears, Oh My!

By: Sam

We weren’t sure what to expect as we approached Glacier National Park. When we were planning our stay, we hadn’t done very much research and were almost completely in the dark. However, as we began to explore the landscape that is known as “The Crown of the Continent,” our sentiments changed from indifference and habitual awe, to the state wonderstruck. We didn’t have to voice the beauty of the Park, the sweeping vistas and jagged mountain ranges spoke for themselves.

On our first day in Glacier, our highlight was visiting the Highline Trail at dusk. Although this trail is one of the most popular trails in the park, between the time being 7:30 at night and an approaching thunderstorm, not many people were on the trail. As we reached the trailhead, something spectacular happened. In the first thirty seconds of our hike, we spotted a snowy white mountain goat and her kid grazing in the bushes. Watching them was a unique experience that was unlike any other I had ever had. When we could finally tear our gaze away from the goats, we continued on our hike, which proved to be quite the experience.

The trail seemed to be cut from the bones of the mountain, and skirted around a magnificent valley that brimmed with waterfalls and frozen snow banks. The storm clouds were rapidly engulfing the area, and a torrent of breezes churned the purple and blue froth over the mountains. It was a place of potency and power and paradoxes. It was a place where fire both sentenced death and gave life. Where water was both fervently moving and was becoming crystallized ice. Where sharp cliffs suddenly fell into a smooth valley. Where the landscape could be unyielding and unforgiving yet majestic and awe-inspiring. A place that was both being and becoming. It was a place where words can only describe so much. Seeing it for the first time was akin to being struck by lightning. I didn’t know whether to laugh uncontrollably or cry hysterically, so I did both, and dissolved into tears of joy and peels of laughter. After that experience, we laid low for our second day in the park, only hiking for a portion of the day to Baring, St. Mary and Virginia Falls. However, the events of the next day were memorable to say the least.

We were aware that there were bears in Glacier. We had even seen many of them from our car. Not just any old-bears either. Grizzlies. Commonly a dusted golden brown, but also able to be black and blond, the Grizzly bears are equipped with 4 inch long claws, and can be anywhere between 300 and 1000 lbs., and can be 6 to7 feet standing upright. Anyone with any common sense would agree that this is a fearsome predator. Sure, the park also has frequent black bear sightings, but while in hostile black bear situations, experts say to fight back using anything you can find, while in Grizzly attacks, the smartest thing to do is to play dead. Which was why we weren’t surprised when we spotted a Grizzly bear with her cubs sauntering above our trail. It was a jaw dropping experience. All that went through the beholder’s minds was, “that is a huge bear.” That morning we had awoken at the crack of dawn (actually it was more like 6:15), and packed supplies for a hike to Iceberg Lake, which was at a 10 mile round trip. After watching the bears for a while, we continued on our trek to the lake, and along the way we traveled with some speedy hikers whose bear spray inspired us to keep up with them. We did not have any bear spray, and so we hiked with them in case we strayed upon a bear.

Iceberg Lake was phenomenal. A chilly blue lake with actual icebergs floating in it, it was the perfect place to take a Christmas card photo. Even though the water was freezing, literally, I summoned my courage and waded and climbed onto an ice float, and returned unable to feel anything past my thighs. It was wonderful. However, after leaving Iceberg and heading back on the trail, we were informed by an approaching ranger that the Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel hikes were now closed due to bear activity. This was a shock. We had never heard of a trail being closed because of too many bears. Apparently the bears were coming down on the trails to feed on huckleberries, and one had already charged a group of hikers.

Later that day we enjoyed the beauty of Swiftcurrent Lake and Josephine Lake on a boat tour, and marveled at the surrounding glaciers and snow banks. As the sun set on what would be our last day at Glacier, we realized something: We needed more time in the Crown of the Continent. With this brewing in the back of our minds, we said goodbye to Glacier, although I’m confident it will not be forever.

Eli and Matt hiking around Running Eagle Falls
Sam soaking in the beauty of the Highline Trail.
Baby goat, you’re welcome.
Waiting in the bushes of love.
Eli at Virginia Falls.
Among the huckleberry (bear food) on our way to Iceberg Lake.
Sam on an iceberg at Iceberg Lake.

 

 

North Cascades National Park: American Alps

In almost every national park we’ve visited, you will find old photos and stories, telling the tale of the discovery, exploitation, and protection of the land. I usually leave these displays trying to imagine what it would be like to visit the park without traffic, campgrounds, and visitor centers. What makes North Cascades National Park unique is that 99% of the park is still wilderness. Only along highway 20 will you see three hydroelectric dams along the Skagit River forming Gorge, Diablo, and Ross Lake owned by Seattle City and Light. At first, this brought to mind the infamous Hetch Hetchy impoundment that riled John Muir. However the teal color of these lakes against these hanging glaciers on Alp-like peaks create an impressive landscape. We were joined in Colonial Campground on the shore of Diablo Lake by my sister Amber, brother-in-law Jon, their daughter Katie, and son Josh. The weather was much warmer than expected, so we were thankful for the ample shade in the campground. We hiked the 4 mile round trip Thunder Knob trail which gave stunning overlooks of Diablo Lake and Colonial Peak. Unfortunately, Eli, who is very allergic to dairy products, accidentally ate a granola bar with milk in it when we were about 2 miles from camp. When he was younger, any ingestion of milk meant he broke out in hives all over his body, became lethargic, and needed injection from an Epi-pen. We prayed, and watched him closely as we hiked back toward the campground. Thankfully, he only got a few hives on his chin, and managed to push through with no major reaction. He was a real trooper! With temperatures peaking around 90 F, we decided to swim in Diablo Lake. Diablo is formed by the tail waters of Ross Lake, so it is very cold (~45-50 F). It was an exercise in extremes; jump in the lake for as long as you could still feel your limbs, then bake on the hot shoreline. Repeat until dinner time. After a while, the kids got into an epic mud fight which passed the warm afternoon. Their only complaint is that they needed to spend some serious time in the chilly lake getting the mud out of their hair! After the hike, swimming, and dinner, the boys went fishing for a bit, but quickly returned to the campfire where we were treated to S’mores, and a wonderful variety show orchestrated by the kids. All in all it was a great visit to North Cascades, and we hope to return one day to explore more.

Braving the Thunder Knob!!
View of Colonial Peak with hanging glaciers along the Thunder Knob Trail
Kids go full blown mud fight on the shores of Diablo Lake.
The combination of Diablo Lake and Colonial Peak is almost as beautiful as my daughter.
Jon and Josh take in the beauty of Sourdough Mountain along Diablo Lake.

San Juan Islands

We had two reasons for visiting the San Juan Islands: visiting family and seeing Orcas. Only the first of those things was easy. We took the ferry from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on Saturday, which was nice because we were able get out of the confining truck for a while. Once on the island, we headed to Snug Harbor Resort where Matt’s parents and sister’s family were waiting for us. This beautiful resort is on Mitchel Bay and has kayaks and paddleboards available. We had a cabin with a kitchen, toilet and, the most important quality at this point in our trip, our own shower! It was like being in a dreamland. The next morning, Saturday, we set off on a six-hour kayak trip in search of Orcas. The waters around the San Juan Islands, the area we kayaked in, are known for having the most Orca sightings than any other area in the world. However, after many hours of kayaking, all our money bought us was a sunburn and a backache. We headed back to the resort to eat, watch some TV (yes! TV!) and sit by the campfire with our family. The next day, the boys explored the island and fished while the girls went to a lavender festival. That afternoon, the kids paddle boarded and kayaked with their cousins, Josh and Katie, while the grown ups played cards, and talked together. On Monday, the boys went fishing at a local pond and afterwards drove to Lime Kiln Point where they saw a few Orcas in the distance! Finally, Matt, after being in Alaska, Antarctica and Washington, got his first glimpse at Orcas! We had a lovely time with Matt’s family. Everyone loved the island, the resort and spending time together. It was difficult to say goodbye to Matt’s parents, but we made plans to see each other again, making the farewell a little less sad.

Looking for Orcas
Samantha and Katie
Eli and Josh

 

Fishing from the dock
Our family!

Olympic National Park

Have you ever had the experience of eating so many appetizers, that you don’t enjoy your main dish as much as you thought you would? The dish is great, but it should have come out earlier in the evening. That was our experience at Olympic National Park. When you have been surrounded by beauty in every national park, after a while it isn’t as impressive anymore. Our first campsite was in the Hoh River Rainforest. We hiked the Hall of Mosses and Hoh River Trail. We were blessed with crystal blue skies, so we didn’t need our rain jackets. The forest was gorgeous, but after just visiting the Redwoods and Crater Lake, it was tough to get the kids motivated. There was plenty of wildlife; deer, elk, bald eagles, however, the children preferred to relax at the campground, and playing along the banks of the Hoh River. We needed a change of scenery. Luckily, and Olympic NP had just the thing; Rialto Beach. Our sunny skies gave way to a thick marine layer, which made its prominent rock promontories all the more imposing. A 1.5-mile hike north from Rialto Beach brought us to some very impressive tide pools. We timed our visit with low tide and were not disappointed. Our attention turned away from the utopian Hoh River rainforest toward the cranky and cramped sub-tidal fauna of the Pacific. Life in tide pools can be tough, predators abound, and food is scarce. One tide pool held our attention for more than an hour. There were hermit crabs on one side, finger sized cabezon fish on the other, separated by a row of hungry sea anemones. The stage was set for a tide pool tantrum. I cracked open one of the abundant California mussels and dropped it into the pool. The tide pool sprang to life in a miniature game of “steal the bacon”. It was a hurricane of activity as each creature viciously fought the others for food. It was fish vs fish, then crab vs fish as all the creatures shredded the mussel to bits. At one point, two hermit crabs were fighting over a piece of mussel, when one of them accidentally backed into the tentacles of a waiting sea anemone. The kids shrieked with satisfaction as the crab was rapidly engulfed by its turquoise tentacles. More! More!, the children cried, enthralled by their newfound mini version of the Hunger Games. It was only when we cracked enough mussels that the crabs and fish were not hungry anymore, that the kids decided that it was time to go. We looked out over the acres of other pools, each one now seeming to us as its own Coliseum, each struggling to survive the rhythm of the Pacific tides.

Kids playing in the Ho River next to our campsite
Gawk at the mosses
Rialto Beach
Tide pool watching

Crater Lake National Park: Big, Deep and Blue

First impression: That is a very blue lake. Second impression: There are a lot of mosquitos here. Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States and it also boasts being the clearest and cleanest. The basin was once a mountain peak but after a volcanic eruption 7,700 years ago, it became a deep fissure and filled with rain and snow. The day we arrived it was perfectly clear and the views from the Rim Village Visitors Center reminded us of a postcard. After exploring the rim a bit, we headed to the Mazama Campground where we found ourselves immersed in mosquitos. We quickly made dinner and played some inside games. Eli started feeling bad around bedtime and after throwing up a few times, settled down for the night. Early the next morning, we decided to make our way to Cleetwood Cove, which is the only legal place to access the lake. We packed our lunch, fishing pole, and swimsuits and headed down the 1.1-mile trail which dropped 700 feet. I can’t emphasize the beauty of the lake views. We stopped along the trail a few times to try and take it in. It is by far one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve ever seen. At the bottom, we found ourselves excited to jump into the 60 degree lake from a rock ledge! We all jumped. Some of us jumped several times! It was an incredible experience that we won’t soon forget!

Crater Lake
Matt and Eli jumping!
Matt and Korin
Samantha jumping in!