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Isle Royale National Park

The only way to reach Isle Royale National Park is by boat or sea plane (unless you are a crazy good kayaker). This national park is located in Lake Superior and is technically a part of Michigan, although we departed from Minnesota. We decided to leave our camper behind for a few days so we could experience the 99% wilderness that Isle Royale boasts. We arrived by sea plane which gave us a fabulous aerial view of the island. No roads. No cars. Just pristine wilderness to explore.

            Once we were settled and had eaten dinner, we set off on our first hike via the Tobin Harbor trail which connects with the Suzy’s Cave trail. It was around 7pm when we started hiking the 4 mile loop and we figured it would be good timing to see a few animals. We reached Suzy’s Cave around 8:30pm and began our way back to the lodge along the water, watching the colors in the sky change as the sun began to descend. Soon we were met by another hiker who told us that there was a moose directly on the trail. Super excited, we walked a few more feet to see a huge bull moose grazing. He was truly a majestic animal. We took pictures, Eli flossed, and we chatted with the other hikers (one family of 4 and 2 others). It was awesome. We were stoked that we saw a moose so quickly after we had arrived! Minutes ticked by. The moose would take a few steps down the trail, we would take a few steps back on the trail. More minutes went by. Soon, another bull moose came out of the brush and was eating. The moose took a few more steps down the trail, we took a few more steps back on the trail. By this time, it was about 9:30 and we were losing light. We were only about a ½ mile from the harbor and could see the lights however, the moose were not in any rush and it didn’t seem like they were going to leave anytime soon. At this point, the 10 of us decided to make the 3 ½ mile trek back around. As far as light was concerned, Matt had one headlamp and I had my cell phone flashlight to share amongst the entire group. Needless to say, it was an interesting hike back over rocks, roots and brush in the pitch dark. About half way back, Matt (who was leading the group) spotted two large orbs on the trail. A second later, he saw two more sets of smaller orbs. It was another moose and her two calves! The ten of us made some noise and soon, the moose headed back into the forest. We all made it safely back to the lodge around 11pm! Whew! What a first day on a remote island!

            We slept in a bit the next morning and decided to take advantage of the wonderful weather to explore the island by boat. Matt rented a small motorboat and we all jumped in. We zipped over to the Edisen Fishery historic site. We were quickly greeted by a volunteer who told us about the area and then made our way to the Rock Harbor Lighthouse on other side of the island. There was a small museum inside the lighthouse that described the area during the 1800-1900s and a great view from the top! From there, we took another trail to the “Mooseum” where was saw hundreds of moose bones and antlers. We met Candy Peterson, the wife of Rolf Peterson who is a research scientist. Rolf and Candy have been conducting research on the moose and wolves of the island for more than 50 years. The four of us found Candy and her knowledge about the moose extremely interesting, especially since we had just seen five moose the night before. She answered all of our questions and inspired the kids to spend their lives doing something the love, just as she and her husband have done. From the Mooseum, we headed to Moskey Bay. After a quick look around, we took the boat over to Daisy Farm, a beautiful field of daisies and other wild flowers. Next, we headed back to the lodge for a late lunch and to celebrate Eli’s 11thbirthday. The restaurant didn’t have any dairy free desserts but luckily, I secretly bought a Hostess Apple Pie at a gas station before we were on the island. Later, Matt and Eli took the boat out and tried fishing for the lake trout we had heard so much about. Later that evening, we took the trail to Scoville Point and saw a fox and a bunny while hiking. 

            Our third day on the island, we packed up and got ready to leave. We had a good breakfast and headed down to the dock. A few minutes before our plane was to arrive, the lodge bellhop came to tell us that due to weather, all flights back to Minnesota were cancelled. This meant that we would not be heading back to Minnesota until the following day. We were surprised to say the least. The lodge had one room left (nicer than our first) so we MasterCard-ed the moment and settled in for one more night. We decided to completed one more hike after dinner in search of more moose and we were successful! We found a moose laying down a few feet from the trail. He looked like he was going in and out of sleep. We had all sorts of time to look at him and through the binoculars we could see the veins in his antlers! 

            The following day we had a very intense game of National Park Monopoly before leaving Isle Royale National Park. As we flew over the island, I thought about the island, the animals and how God orchestrated such a beautiful place. I felt blessed to have had the experience with my family and terribly emotional as I realized that our 2019 summer adventure was coming to a close. 

Isle Royale National Park
We surprised Eli and Sam with the sea plane option!
Matt is ready!
Suzy’s Cave
Sam pondering the Isle
The moose on our trail
The Edison Fishery
Rock Harbor Lighthouse
Matt and Samantha
Museum
Eli at the Museum
Scooting around the island in the motorboat
Daisy Farm
Happy 11th Birthday to Eli!
Scoville Point
Eli tries to hold up a moose antler that we found
The sleeping moose
Getting ready to leave Isle Royale
Heading back to Minnesota!

Voyageurs National Park

By: Matt

Voyageurs National Park lies on the boundary waters between northern Minnesota and southern Ontario. It is named after the French Canadian trappers that used these waters for the beaver fur trade. The park itself only has 8 miles of paved roads, and all of the campsites are only accessible by water, so seeing the park by car is not possible. I thought to myself, perfect, I’ll just bring the family out by boat! Thus began another dad-venture. 

I found an outfitter than rented houseboats on Crane Lake, which is one of the lakes that connects to the waterways of Voyageurs. We arrived at the Voyagaire Lodge at about 2:30 pm to pick up “Island Hopper.” Island Hopper is a 36 foot houseboat, complete with water slide, refrigerator, microwave, BBQ, head, and shower. Samantha was very happy that she was going to have a real toilet and shower on the boat. It didn’t really matter to her that she would be showering in with lake water. Compared to the pop-up, this thing was a mansion, and everybody was excited. I guess after 4 weeks in a pop-up, expectations had been set so low that we felt like we were cruising in style! So far, the dad-venture was going to plan.

Each night, the houseboats scramble to tie up to designated houseboat campsites. Some of these are maintained by the National Park Service, while others are informal, and can only be identified by stone fire-rings on shore. Since we arrived in the afternoon, we made a short steam to the upper reaches of Grassy Bay on Sand Point Lake. We found an unofficial site perched on a granite bolder surrounded by dense Minnesota woods. The place was idyllic. Downed logs in the water, lily pads, soaring eagles above, and a warm afternoon sun. Once we tied up the boat, we grilled some hamburgers on the deck and enjoyed dinner overlooking the water. Since the sun sets so late (~9pm), Eli and I decided to try our luck at fishing from the 16 foot aluminum boat that comes with each houseboat. With a 15 hp motor, it got on a plane quickly and skimmed across the smooth water. Eli really liked driving it. In about an hour we landed 4 smallmouth bass and 1 northern pike. Not too bad for not trying very hard. We got back for sunset and hung around the fire. I couldn’t believe how nice it was! We looked forward to star-gazing as the last bit of daylight receded. That’s when it started. What seemed like at first a few stray mosquitos turned into a squadron of combat trained mosquito ninjas. The air was alive with the high-pitch whirring of blood sucking vampires. We looked toward the houseboat for refuge, but that too was coated with bugs trying to get to the lights inside the boat. We dashed in the door, only letting in a few hundred of the hoarding millions. The next hour was a full on “swat to the death” as we mercilessly exterminated all insects. After that the lake water shower was nice way to wash off the bloody mosquito carcasses.

The next morning, the bugs had vanished. We steamed north to Namakan Lake to explore the islands. We found a nice swimming hole and used the houseboat slide to its fullest potential. There were some storm clouds to our north, so we turned south again into Sand Point Lake. We had read that the more rocky campsites had fewer bugs, so we made our way to an island that was mostly granite to tie up for the night. We found a wonderful site, and swam and fished a bit more. We made a huge fire on the granite rock, completely bug free. We had a wonderful evening….until the last bit of daylight receded. We must have really made the mosquitos angry the night before, because they showed up with reinforcements. I didn’t think it was possible to fit more angry bugs in the air. These things attacked so fast that we barely had time to retreat to the boat. We swatted away for another hour, clearing out the boat, then wept silently in our pillows (really!). I actually contemplated turning in the boat a day early. The bugs are tough!

By morning, the bugs were gone again, and we saw a beaver busily working on a nearby shoreline. The day was HOT, so we decided to motor over to Burnt Island where there are places to jump off cliffs. The kids were excited about this, and they jumped off the boat, and swam over to the island. There are two cliffs to jump from, the lower is about 15 feet high and the upper is about 40 feet. Sam wasted no time jumping from 40 feet, and Eli followed. By then we had an audience of about 5 boats cheering us on. It was so refreshing on a hot day! For a finale, Eli, Sam and I a jumped off the high rock at the same time. Unfortunately, Eli jumped with his arms out, rather than tucking them to his side. He received a pretty bright raspberry on each arm that stayed until the next day. OUCH! He was a trooper though. 

One of the best things we did was park the boat, and hike over to Mukooda Lake. There, we were treated with crystal clear water filled with fish. The kids waded out to their waist and caught dozens of panfish with a few really nice smallmouth bass mixed in. It was a great time on light tackle. We left the fish biting, and went in search of our last campsite. This time we learned our lesson. We found a beautiful campsite in Grassy Bay, swam and fished the afternoon away…but as soon as the sun went down, we stayed inside!!! Alas, we had a wonderful dinner, played cards, trivia, and mocked the mosquitos hanging on the outside of our boat. It was a good night sleep on a quiet bay, in a very beautiful national park.

The Island Hopper
Dinner on the houseboat roof
Eli with a northern pike
Eli with a smallmouth bass
Our campfire the second night
Eli with a smallmouth bass
Samantha cliff jumping
Eli cliff jumping
One of our houseboat campsites

Grasslands National Park, Canada

By: Eli

Grasslands National Park in Canada was a bonus park for us (we weren’t planning to go there). When we drove up to Grasslands National Park and I thought it was Kentucky all over again because there was so much grass. However, right after I thought that, we spotted a humongous bison! We saw some prairie dogs on our way into the park too. After we arrived at the the Frenchman Valley Campground, Sam and I decided to give the prairie dogs names: Riko, Krodor, Beelzebub and Thaddes Von Fruity. Then we ran up a hill along side our campsite and watched the sunset. It was beautiful. After dinner we started fire and roasted some marshmallows. As the sun went down, we gazed up at the stars. We could see the Milky Way. As we sat around the fire we heard coyotes howling! The next morning, we woke up and got on the road. My favorite thing about this national park was the wild life. Prairie dogs were everywhere!     

Sunset at the Grasslands
Prairie Dog
Our Grasslands National Park campsite

Yoho National Park

By: Eli

Ok, before going to Yoho National Park we hiked Johnston Canyon and all the way to the ink-pots. This hike should have a do not do sign at the start. The ink-pots were just ponds basically. No not even basically, they just were ponds. After this hike I felt like Dad was like, “Now young Eli you shall die!” Then Darth Sam drastically saved me from emperor Dad with a cookie and yadda yadda you know the rest…   

The Kickinghorse Campground is where we stayed in Yoho. It was awesome. You had a circle of treeless campsites with mountains circling the campground. The campers were parked on the outer rim and in the middle, there was a grassy field. In the middle of the field there were a few rocks and under those rocks lived 7 little red squirrels, 5 babies and 2 parents. And what was the most awesome about it was that the squirrels got so close that I could pet them!  

Sadly, there is not much to write about Yoho. We only stayed 1 night there. Also, who named this place? Was it Sponge-Bob or maybe it was Jack Sparrow? Or was it named after a guy that that really liked pirates? Anyway, moving on… The next day we hiked to Takakkaw Falls. I’m not even going to guess who named that. While we were driving there we saw a huge moose but let’s get to the falls. The falls were beautiful. Dad and I hiked almost to the top and felt the mist on our skin. The view was beautiful. They are the second longest falls in Canada. My dad and I put a tiny rock onto a rock pile and scurried down to the bottom before a ranger came to tell us to get down!

Peace from the Plains of Canada. -Eli

Our family in front of the falls
Eli at Takakkaw Falls
Eli and Matt at the falls

Banff National Park

by: Korin            

I grew up in a family that went camping. From an early age I remember fishing, hiking and of course, playing cards. I guess this is how my passion for travelling and seeing the beauty of God’s creation began. Over the years, my parents have camped all over North America. So, naturally, when Matt and I began thinking about our summer plans, I asked my mom what our family still needed to see. She urged us to visit the Canadian Rockies. 

            We were greeted in Banff National Park by a beautiful view of towering peaks and a mysterious feel as a storm had just passed. After seeing some elk along the road, finding our campsite in the Two Jack Lakeside Campground and setting up, we headed into the nearby town, also named Banff. The town was picturesque and bursting with people as we went to the visitor’s center, ran a few errands, and had dinner. The next morning, we set off on our hike to Sunshine Meadows. To get to the meadow and three alpine lakes, we took a gondola and then a chair lift up the mountain. We then had a lovely short hike down the beautiful lakes in the valley. 

            After spending a few nights in the Banff area, we headed to Johnston Canyon and hiked approximately 7 miles to the Ink Pots. Honestly, the canyon was pretty but the trail was so crowded it was anything but peaceful. Matt later compared it to a conga line. Later that night we stayed in Yoho National Park which Eli will tell you about. The following day we arrived in the Lake Louise area of Banff National Park. When we arrived, I was pretty disappointed with how crowded it was. The parking for Lake Louise and Moraine Lake was full. We learned that people were walking several miles to Lake Louise and that the shuttles were operating with a two hour wait. Furthermore, I was under the impression that our campsite in Lake Louise Campground would be within walking distance to the lake but I soon realized that it was several miles away. We headed to our campsite, set up the pop-up and had lunch. A few hours later that we learned that we were in the wrong campsite and had to move. What a day! After dinner we decided to try our luck at getting a parking spot and exploring the area a bit. We found a spot at Lake Louise and headed towards the lake. The water was a beautiful glacial green-blue with a significant mountain backdrop. We explored a bit and moved on to Moraine Lake. Here, we climbed the Rock Trail to get a view of the lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Despite the amount of people there, the scene was magnificent and the color of the water with the peaks in the background was astounding.

            Due to the weather, we decided to postpone our Banff hikes and head to Jasper National Park the next morning. After a two-hour car ride along the stunning Icefields Parkway, we arrived at the Columbia Icefields. We boarded a massive “Ice Explorer” all-terrain vehicle (AKA a monster truck) to a place where we could walk on, feel and drink from the Athabasca Glacier. It was extremely chilly on the glacier, but it was an incredible experience. We finished the adventure with a jaw-dropping walk along the glass floored Skywalk on the edge of a cliff!

            We woke the kids up at 5:30 AM the next morning in order to get a parking spot at Lake Louise. I wanted to complete a 12-mile loop hike which included two tea houses (tiny cafés in the middle of the mountains). I mean, who wouldn’t want to be rewarded in the middle of their hike with tea and biscuits? We arrived at the parking lot at 6:01 and snagged a spot. The parking lot was full by 6:25. After Matt made coffee and breakfast on the truck tailgate, we were on the trail! The start of the hike was tough and had significant elevation gain. We opted to do the Little Beehive lookout which brought us to a view of the lake and the next valley. We pressed onward to the first tea house and we were not disappointed. Overlooking Lake Agnes sat a quaint and charming tea house. While inside we had tea, biscuits and a homemade VEGAN apple blueberry crumble! Needless to say, Eli was ecstatic and everyone got a nice rest from the first few miles. We took the Highline Trail that connected us to the second destination: Plain of Six Glaciers. In Glacier National Park, we hiked to one glacier but this hike brought us to six at one time! It was lunchtime when we got to the second tea house and the glaciers. The tea house was nice but didn’t have as many options as the first, so we had some lemonade and snacks but followed up with our own packed sandwiches and snacks down by the viewing benches. We gazed up at the incredible view for quite a while. While we were there, a sound sort of like thunder erupted and a piece of one glacier fell off. It was spectacular. The hike finished with a crowded walk along Lake Louise. Overall, the day had been delightful and the views quite memorable. 

            Our last day in the Canadian Rockies once again began early. We wanted to hike to Consolation Lake which is located in the Lake Moraine area. We reached the parking lot at 5:58 AM and it was full! Yes. Full at 5:58 AM. We went up the road about ¾ of a mile and found a turnout that hadn’t been occupied yet, so we quickly grabbed it. The trail to Consolation Lake was nice and pretty flat which was welcomed as we were still recovering from the long hike the day before. There was a rock scramble at the end which led us to another glacial lake in a gorgeous valley. Matt and Eli fished for a bit and then we headed back to Lake Moraine. After walking along the lake, we decided it was time to beat the impending storm and head back to the pop-up. We relaxed all afternoon (some of us even took naps), Matt fished on the Bow River and we ended the night with some intense card playing!

We had to deal with some weather and significant crowds but all in all, our time in the Canadian Rockies was enjoyable. The days gave me time to reflect on my camping experiences as a child and how much my family and the surroundings influenced me as we walked along trails, fished for elusive trout and sat around countless campfires. That is what I hope these summer camping trips bring to my own kids. A sense of amazement of God’s creation. An adventurous spirit willing to walk the extra mile to see what is just beyond the bend. A family closeness that is weaved through uninterrupted conversations and experiences together.

Korin camping as a little girl
Getting ready to go up the mountain
On the chairlift
Sunshine Meadows
Rock Isle Lake
Matt and Sam on the Johnston Canyon hike
Matt at the Ink Pots
Lake Louise Campground
Lake Louise
Matt and Korin at Lake Moraine
Sam and Eli at Lake Moraine
All the pictures can’t be formal!
Matt and Korin on the bus to the glacier
Sam and Eli getting ready to walk on a glacier!
Athabasca Glacier
Sam and Eli on the Skywalk
Matt and Eli on the Skywalk
Lake Agnes Teahouse
Sam and Eli enjoying the refreshments at the Lake Agnes Teahouse
We made it to the second teahouse!
Eli rests at the Plain of Six Glaciers
Sam and Eli after hiking the trail to the teahouses
Matt and Korin after the Lake Louise hike!
Consolation Lake

Glacier Part II: The Crown of the Continent

By: Sam

Getting there was not easy, getting a campsite was not easy, but without a doubt, Glacier National Park was worth all of its trials and tribulations. Months ago, (six months to be exact) we had logged on to recreation.gov in hopes of securing a coveted campsite in Many Glacier Campground. Acquiring a Many Glacier campsite is akin to getting super bowl tickets; as soon as they become available, they sell out in less than a second. It took us a few days, but thanks to Eli’s fast fingers, we reserved six nights in Many Glacier. And that was that. We all were looking forward to our arrival in Glacier, and didn’t worry at all about our stay there.

Until Theodore Roosevelt. 

If you’ve read my previous blog post from last year’s stop at Glacier (titled: Glacier, Goats, and Bears, Oh My!), you know that there is one constant factor that is both the biggest attraction and hindrance in the park: Bears. Last year, a trail that we were on was shut down mid-hike because of bear activity (it turns out that while Grizzlies can look majestic and cute from a distance, they can maul people up close.) 

This year, the bears struck again. So really, the title of this post should be Glacier Episode V: The Bears Strike Back, or something. But I digress.

Let’s go back to Theodore Roosevelt for a second. We were driving along following a herd of Bison and enjoying the scenery, when Mom realized that she had a voicemail from the National Park Service. It was a ranger explaining that because of recent threatening bear activity in Many Glacier Campground, only hard sided trailers were currently allowed. This meant that no tents, and more importantly, no pop-ups were allowed to stay in the campground. 

We all sat in stunned silence for a minute. And then we frantically started revising our plans. Cue, Option #1: We just wouldn’t go to Glacier. Veto. We couldn’t do that. We had centered our entire summer trip around our Many Glacier campground reservation, and we had been looking forward to it for half a year! Option #2: We would forfeit our reservations in Many Glacier and camp in St. Mary Campground. Veto. Staying there meant we would have to drive at least an hour to the trails we wanted to hike. Option #3: We would just have sleep in the truck for 6 nights, as we couldn’t just give up our prized campsite.

This seemed to be our best option. That is, until Dad chose The Nuclear Option and rented us a 30-foot hard-sided trailer complete with a slide out, refrigerator, oven, and toilet. 

Alas, it’s true. We are no longer simple pop-up trailer campers. We have tasted the forbidden fruit of luxury RV camping. But we got to stay at Many Glacier Campground, so I guess the ends justify the means. 

We embarked on our first hike, Ptarmigan Tunnel, early Monday morning, hoping to complete it before the bears could shut it down. Last year, this was the hike that we couldn’t do because of bear activity, and we were determined to master it, even though it was a 13-mile round trip with a 2,700-foot elevation gain. And master it we did. For three and a half hours, we trekked up the steep trail, surrounded by white flowers that we affectionately named “bear armpits” because of their musky scent. Our legs and backs ached, but we were on a mission. Plus, the views of Ptarmigan Lake below us, and the views through the tunnel looming before us were breathtaking. 

That night, our grandparents Giga and Opa arrived in Glacier, and we spent the next day catching up and playing UNO and Monopoly. It was wonderful getting to spend time with them. We only went on a short hike that day to Apikumi Falls, and although it was beautiful, it was nothing compared to our hike the next day.

After our Sabbath hiking day, we decided to knock off another of our planned hikes: Grinnell Glacier. Although it was a ten-mile hike from our campsite, we decided to shorten it by taking a boat across Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine to the trailhead. After a pleasant boat ride with Giga and Opa, we started our march up to the glacier. The trail itself was utterly stunning, with a kaleidoscope of alpine flowers in the surrounding meadow, and with three turquoise lakes beneath us.  It was supposed to be beautiful weather, partly cloudy with a 20% of rain, and for a while it was. Until the clouds rolled in. They skulked over the mountain edge until we were completely engulfed in a dark storm. Then the sky’s swollen stomach split open, and we stood in a curtain of rain. We were two miles into our hike, with two more uphill miles till we reached the glacier, and four more miles for the return trip. But there was no way that a little bit of bad weather would slow down the Oliver family! At least, that’s what we told ourselves as it started to pour. 

However, with a healthy (or insane) dose of determination, and sturdy hiking boots, we hiked until we stood victoriously (albeit, a little soggy) at the summit. Standing next to the glacier was like entering another world. Ice floated eerily on the surface of the green glacial lake. I’m glad that I saw Grinnell Glacier, as the sheet of ice perched on the mountain is scheduled to be melted by in the next decade. That being said, if you are going to see Glacier, go now as all of its glaciers are forecasted to turn to snowfields by 2030. 

The rest of that day can be told in a single sentence: shivering, we slogged down the mountain to the boat dock, which took us to the Many Glacier Lodge, where we got hot chocolate, cozied up to a fire, and ended our freezing adventure. 

The final hikes we embarked on in Glacier was a short hike to Avalanche Lake, which brought us to a lake lined by a ridge with three waterfalls flowing from it. Eli and Dad caught cut throat trout. Mom and I ate Ritz crackers, all in all, it was a good hike. The second of the two hikes was the Highline Trail up in Logan Pass, a repeat from last summer, which I covered in last year’s blogpost (if you haven’t read Glacier, Goats, and Bears, Oh My!, now’s the time to do it.) The Highline was exactly as I remembered it, windy, wild, and bubbling to the brim with joy. We didn’t go as far as we did last year, but we went far enough to see the three waterfalls trickling down the side of the valley. The best part of the hike was the same as it was last year: the goats. Last year we saw two mountain goats, a mother and a baby right off the side of the trail. This year came with an added bonus: we actually shared the trail with a mother and her baby, and they brushed passed us on their way to the meadow. Even though we seldom repeat hikes, the Highline Trail was worth it. It is possible that the most extraordinary thing we saw in Glacier we saw on our way out of the park. We pulled over to get a closer look, at a mother Grizzly, her cub, and a random black bear, forage for food along a stream. We gazed at these three majestic predators, wary of each other (the black bear and the Grizzly kept their distances from one another), yet all coexisting in the same ecosystem. All in all, it was a great way to end our journey at Glacier National Park. I guess the bears ushered us out in the end. 

Nuclear Option in our campsite
Eli and Sam among the Bear Armpit (Bear Grass) on the Ptarmigan trail.
Korin, Sam and Eli getting ready to walk through the Ptarmigan Tunnel.
View from the Ptarmigan Tunnell
Sam and Eli looking over Ptarmigan Lake, back into Many Glacier.
Hanging out in Many Glacier Campground
Sam checking out Apikuni Falls.
Giga and Opa (Verla and Al) on Swiftcurrent Lake
On our way to the Grinnell Glacier.
Sam and Lower Grinnell Lake.
Sam and Eli looking back on Lower Grinnell Lake and Lake Josephine.
Grinnell Glacier melting into Upper Grinnell Lake.
Matt and Giga (Verla) on the Road to the Sun.
Matt and Eli fishing in Avalanche Lake.
Eli catches a nice cutthroat trout at Avalanche Lake.
Sam hiking the Highline
Goats! on the Highline.
Mountain goats scamper past Sam and Eli on the Highline trail as Korin looks on

Makoshika State Park

My kids call activities that I plan “dad-ventures.” My dad-ventures have had mixed results. Some are unexpected gems and others are horrible failures. So, when I suggested that we stop in the Hell Creek formation to hunt for fossils, they were skeptical.  Our base camp was Makoshika State Park, Montana. We missed pronounced it the entire time we were there. We called is mako-sheeka instead of mu-co-shi-ka which is its Native American name. Later visitors called it hell with all of the fires put out. We arrived at the campground a day earlier than expected and we thought we would have to pay to adjust our reservation. Fortunately, we met campground hosts Lori and Oscar who were very kind and helpful. They suggested that we look for a campsite in Pine Creek Campground. The road sign on the way to Pine Creek campground said “no trailers”. When I asked Oscar about that, he said that our pop-up didn’t count as a “real” trailer. I guess in some ways this is true, we had no problem pulling our camper up the 15% grade. The Pine Creek campground sits on a small spur of public land overlooking the badlands of Montana. The view from our site was amazing and is probably one of the best sites we’ve ever had. We ate spaghetti together as the sunset turning a distant thunderstorm into pinkish orange sky fire.

One of my favorite pieces of camping gear is the solar shower. If you are like me, and like to take showers, you’re going to want to buy one of these. As the sun set, our family put on swimsuits and took turns washing down with sun-heated water on the tailgate of the truck. So refreshing! As night descended, we were cozy in the trailer, getting ready for a big adventure the following day. Just before going to bed I was outside adjusting the trailer when I heard a snake rattle. Not more than two feet away was a large prairie rattlesnake under one side of our camper. The ranger at Theodore Roosevelt National Park said that prairie rattlers like to come out on cool nights to find sources of heat. For some reason, this snake chose the rocks under our trailer. From a safe distance, the kids shined their flashlights on the snake hoping the snake would find another place to go. After about 15 minutes, it was clear that the snake wasn’t going anywhere and wanted to stay under our camper. I did not think it was safe to have a rattlesnake under our camper for the night, so I dispatched it in the most humane way I could. But I don’t think we will soon forget that encounter.

The next morning, I saw a very large buck mule deer at sunrise.  I could tell by the lack of chill in the air, that it was going to be a hot day.  I was worried that this dad-venture was going to be a bust as the children melted under the sweltering Montana sun. We met our guides, Shana and Shane at Baisch’s Dinosaur Digs in Glendive. Their family has been hunting fossils on their private ranch land since the 1950’s. They took us out on a pockmarked ranch road full of gullies and ditches. I was happy we had an off-road pick-up! The dig site was beautiful. Gray, black and orange hillsides characterized by twisting gullies looked as if they were being melted in slow motion by water. By this time the heat of the day was setting in and we had not even begun. We had no idea what to expect, but after a short hike our guides showed us just how much fossilized bone was laying on the hillsides. We found large chunks of dinosaur bone, turtle shells, petrified wood and even petrified pinecones scattered about. The kids found one large outcropping of bone which we spent about 45 minutes excavating with screwdrivers and paintbrushes. The excitement of the dinosaur fossils cancelled out the heat of the day as the kids scampered from gully to gully, finding the remains of an ancient ecosystem. We ended the day by hiking to a recent triceratops excavation. The number and the size of the bones was impressive. We got to ask some real paleontologists about their work. Samantha later confessed that she thought this dad-venture was going to fall flat. But the kids left energized by their finds and the stark beauty of the Montana badlands. This dad-venture did not disappoint.

Our pop-up in Makoshika State Park
View from our campsite in Makoshika State Park
Eli unearthing an unknown dinosaur fossil in the Hell Creek formation.
Sam with the remnants of a fossilized tree.
Sam and Eli posing next to ribs from a Triceratops in the Hell Creek formation.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

By Korin

I wanted to visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park last summer but we just couldn’t squeeze it into our trip. From everything I had researched, I thought the park would be similar to Badlands National Park and in some ways, it was. The park is divided up into three sections: North Unit, Elkhorn Ranch, South Unit. We arrived in the south unit and headed straight for the visitor’s center. We watched the park movie, went through the museum, and took a tour of Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin. We learned that Theodore Roosevelt came to the North Dakota Badlands in 1883 to hunt buffalo (bison). During his first trip he shot a buffalo, bought into a ranch, and entered the cattle business. He returned to New York, but headed back to the Badlands in 1884 to grieve and find solitude after his wife and mother died on the same day. During his presidency, Roosevelt credited his time in North Dakota as inspiring his later wilderness preservation efforts within the United States. 

After setting up the trailer and exploring the Little Missouri river behind our campsite, we searched for wildlife on the scenic loop drive. The turnouts in the park were beautiful and we soon spotted a herd of wild horses. The horses were truly magnificent creatures, they were a rainbow of colors, ranging from a midnight black and chestnut brown to a blinding white. We followed them in our car as they made their way down a hill and to a watering hole. We ended our evening with a ranger lead moonlit hike on the Wind Canyon Trail. 

In the morning, we decided to go back to the Scenic Loop Drive to look for bison. We hiked the Buck Hill trail and part of the old east entrance where we spotted a bison and a multitude of prairie dogs. We decided to press down the road to try and find more bison. Just before we got back to our campground, we saw a bison jam (it’s like a traffic jam, just with bison occupying most of the road)! A huge herd of bison was moving through the area. We pulled over and ate our lunch as the bison grazed their lunch in an adjacent field. We finished our trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park by hiking the Painted Canyon Nature Trail in the rain. It was a beautiful, quiet and wet (it was raining) hike. 

Overall, Theodore Roosevelt National Park had great history, hiking and wildlife. The story behind the park and its namesake, President Roosevelt was extremely interesting. The hillsides were full of beautiful green grasses and yellow clover. We were able to spot several wild animals including: wild horses, bison, prairie rattle snakes, frogs, sage grouse, bunnies and bats. The park was not easy to get to but was definitely worth seeing!

Maltese Cross Cabin
Our family with the wild ponies!
Wind Canyon Trail
Using the spy scope to view animals
Buck Hill
Sam on Buck Hill
Our family with the bison!

Indiana Sand Dunes National Park

By: Eli

My parents took me to the newest National Park: Indiana Sand Dunes. The park was a surprise to me. When I first saw it, I thought it was just a beach but then I turned to my right side and there was a colossal mountain of sand. The sand was warm and softer than any other sand I have ever felt. After Sam and I rode our scooters to the beach from the campground, we walked up the dune. We took a selfie with Lake Michigan and the sunset in the background. Right under the sun you could see the buildings from Chicago.

Here is what I did while I was at the Indiana Sand Dunes National Park:

1. I ran down a sand dune as fast as I could and had a major wipeout. 

2. I swam in Lake Michigan. The water was very clear! 

3. I went up an extremely steep sand dune and slid down. My mom and my sister were freaking out (they were having flashbacks of Gunnison), but my dad cheered me on. I climbed back up and went back down another time.

4. I went into the water and after 15 minutes I finally was able to push my dad in the water after he had thrown me into the water multiple times.

5. I celebrated my victory with a Pop-tart back at the trailer.

There were several things I enjoyed while at the park. I liked pushing my dad into the water. I also liked rolling down the sand dune with my dad and my dad rolling over me. I liked being crushed and getting a mouthful of sand, (I didn’t enjoy being crushed, but let’s look at the bright side, I definitely got the feel of the land.)

I would DEFINITELY go to this park with your kids, just make sure you go to the beach. It might not seem as good as other national parks but it is DEFINITELY one of the best parks for family fun.

Peace from the Old-Man Camper,

Eli Oliver

Indiana Dunes National Park
Hiking up the dunes
Getting ready to slide down the dune!
Samantha and Eli’s sunset selfie
Our campsite

Niagara Falls: Expectations Exceeded

Sam here. Let me begin by saying that our expectations for Niagara Falls were low, so low in fact, that two summers ago we cut it out of our trip and decided to go home instead. You see, we viewed it as a tourist trap, a kitsch stop, not something worth seeing. We envisioned ourselves walking through stores crammed with souvenirs and sidewalks bustling with tourists and hawkers, all of who scrambled over piles of litter toward the legendary waterfall. 

 It doesn’t sound like an ideal place to camp. Either that, or we are nature snobs. I’ll let you decide.  

            Here is what actually happened:

            We rolled into the Niagara Falls KOA at approximately 5:19 PM. We were bedraggled, sleepy, and famished, yet still enthusiastic after nine hours of travel. After setting up and eating dinner, Eli and I went to the complimentary KOA trampoline, where we met other campground children. Why is this relevant? It is my opinion the friendship between nations does not begin on the political stage, or even in a diplomat’s office. It begins at a campground playground, where kids from all over the world, who may not even speak the same language, play tag together and push each other on the swings.

            Later that evening, we drove down to the falls to see them lit up in a splendid array of colors and to see the nightly fireworks show. Seeing Niagara Falls was a magical experience, especially for Eli. He had no idea that we were going to see the waterfall, not just some random one, although that does sound like us. Chuckling to ourselves that he didn’t know what Niagara Falls were, we decided to keep it a surprise for him. (Actually, this entire trip is a surprise for him, since he has no idea where we are going.) As for the falls, words fail to describe it, except to say that the thick torrents of white frothing water that are Niagara Falls, make every other waterfall pale in comparison. 

               Even though we had already seen the falls, we hung around the next morning since we had one last activity to cross off our list before we packed up: a boat tour. Like everything else about Niagara, our expectations were low, and we were checking our watches as we took the Hornblower Cruises Funicular to our boat the Niagara Thunder. Our only inkling that this would be memorable were the red plastic rain ponchos the crew handed to us. 

            And memorable it was.

            Getting up close to Niagara Falls was like nothing we had never experienced before. In fact, this stop on our trip did nothing but exceed our expectations. As we sailed closer to the mighty waterfall, its churning mist glided toward us and gave us the showers we needed. Eli had decided not to wear the rain poncho and in no time at all, he was drenched to the bone. Even Dad’s special quick-dry pants and rain slicker did not stop the droplets from penetrating into his skin. We were wet, squished by the crowd, and deliriously happy. We couldn’t stop laughing, so much so that we probably sounded hysterical. It was just that, being surrounded by the churning silver and blue water and mist of the ever-flowing waterfall, filled us to the brim with a fizzy, glittery feeling of joy and wonder, swirling within us as the water moved within Niagara Falls. Dad says that that feeling is called being high on nature. I say that it’s just truly feeling alive. 

Niagara Falls lit up orange
Waiting for the fireworks!
Niagara Falls 2019
Eli in front of the falls
Our family in front of the falls