Author: Korin Oliver

By Korin

I wanted to visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park last summer but we just couldn’t squeeze it into our trip. From everything I had researched, I thought the park would be similar to Badlands National Park and in some ways, it was. The park is divided up into three sections: North Unit, Elkhorn Ranch, South Unit. We arrived in the south unit and headed straight for the visitor’s center. We watched the park movie, went through the museum, and took a tour of Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin. We learned that Theodore Roosevelt came to the North Dakota Badlands in 1883 to hunt buffalo (bison). During his first trip he shot a buffalo, bought into a ranch, and entered the cattle business. He returned to New York, but headed back to the Badlands in 1884 to grieve and find solitude after his wife and mother died on the same day. During his presidency, Roosevelt credited his time in North Dakota as inspiring his later wilderness preservation efforts within the United States. 

After setting up the trailer and exploring the Little Missouri river behind our campsite, we searched for wildlife on the scenic loop drive. The turnouts in the park were beautiful and we soon spotted a herd of wild horses. The horses were truly magnificent creatures, they were a rainbow of colors, ranging from a midnight black and chestnut brown to a blinding white. We followed them in our car as they made their way down a hill and to a watering hole. We ended our evening with a ranger lead moonlit hike on the Wind Canyon Trail. 

In the morning, we decided to go back to the Scenic Loop Drive to look for bison. We hiked the Buck Hill trail and part of the old east entrance where we spotted a bison and a multitude of prairie dogs. We decided to press down the road to try and find more bison. Just before we got back to our campground, we saw a bison jam (it’s like a traffic jam, just with bison occupying most of the road)! A huge herd of bison was moving through the area. We pulled over and ate our lunch as the bison grazed their lunch in an adjacent field. We finished our trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park by hiking the Painted Canyon Nature Trail in the rain. It was a beautiful, quiet and wet (it was raining) hike. 

Overall, Theodore Roosevelt National Park had great history, hiking and wildlife. The story behind the park and its namesake, President Roosevelt was extremely interesting. The hillsides were full of beautiful green grasses and yellow clover. We were able to spot several wild animals including: wild horses, bison, prairie rattle snakes, frogs, sage grouse, bunnies and bats. The park was not easy to get to but was definitely worth seeing!

Cuyahoga National Park lies between Cleveland and Akron, Ohio. Cuyahoga’s main attraction is the history of the Ohio and Erie Canal, which is fed by the Cuyahoga River. The canal opened in 1827 and provided transportation for traders and settlers. By the twentieth century, it was considered the most polluted river in the United States. In fact, the river was so polluted that it had 13 fires, the last of which was in 1969. At this point, public outcry was so great that a conservation effort was launched. In 1974 the Cuyahoga Valley became a National Recreation Area and in 2000 it was named a National Park.

We began our exploration of the park at the Boston Store Visitors Center. After learning a bit about the park, we hiked the Ledges Trail, an easy 2-mile loop. The kids, noticing the easily accessible cliffs above the trail, tracked our every movement and had a wonderful time sneaking up on us. Next we made our way to the most popular attraction in the park, Brandywine Falls. It was just a short walk to see the 60 foot waterfall, which was beautiful, but did not compare to some of the other natural wonders we had seen out west. We ended our Cuyahoga experience at the Canal Exploration Center in the north end of the park. Here we were able to learn a lot about how the canal was created, the lock system that was used, and what life was like when the canal boats were at their peak. We also learned that the canal helped Ohio financially, which allowed the state to lay down more railroad track than any other state. Ironically, the railroad put the canal boats out of business due to their speed and comfort. Although our time at Cuyahoga was brief, it was an interesting park with a checkered past. Thankfully, the park and river are recovering significantly each year and will be available to future generations to enjoy.

By Sam

I was expecting to loathe the Badlands. I thought it would be dry and dull and full of despair, just like the desert. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Once we arrived at our campground, our first order of business was to celebrate Eli’s 10^th birthday by sticking candles in a chicken patty like a cake. As Mom said, “nothing says happy 10^th birthday like a chicken patty.” At sunset, we went on a drive through the prairie to look for animals, and even though we saw a herd of magnificent big-horned sheep, the beauty of the landscape stole our attention. The sun was the color of a ripe nectarine, and hung smoldering and casting shadows in the sky. It set the strange rock formations and hills aglow. The next day, we hiked a couple trails that wove through the hills of rock and cliffs, and explored the visitor center. Even though we didn’t stay long in the Badlands, the sights and scenery convinced me that it would not join my list of Most Despised National Parks (hint: all of them are in the desert and give me rashes), in fact, I rather enjoyed our jaunt there.

The Black Hills of South Dakota let us explore Wind Cave National Park and Mount Rushmore National Monument. We started our exploration with a candlelight tour of Wind Cave, which simulated what it would have been like to explore the cave as visitors did in the 1890s. Sixteen-year-old Alvin McDonald was the earliest explorer of the cave. He mapped several miles of the cave and left a detailed daily journal of what he found. The prominent features in the cave are boxwork, popcorn and frostwork. We weren’t allowed to take any pictures on this two-hour, moderately strenuous tour, but hopefully we will remember how intricate the features were. Following our cave tour we decided to drive around and look for wild animals in the park. After many miles of driving around the rolling grasslands, we saw pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, coyote and many, many bison.

From there we headed to Mount Rushmore. I was really looking forward to seeing the memorial and when we arrived, Eli became extremely excited. At first we didn’t understand why he was so elated. It turned out that he didn’t realize Mount Rushmore was the mountain with president faces carved into it and was expecting to see just another mountain! We visited the museum and walked the trail to see the presidents but unfortunately, just as the night lighting program was about to begin there was an plethora of lightning in the near distance and an impending storm. They cancelled the program but still illuminated the faces of the presidents who represented the birth of the nation, expansion, unification, and conservation. We had a fabulous time in the beautiful black hills seeing the animals, Wind Cave and Mount Rushmore!

By: Sam

We weren’t sure what to expect as we approached Glacier National Park. When we were planning our stay, we hadn’t done very much research and were almost completely in the dark. However, as we began to explore the landscape that is known as “The Crown of the Continent,” our sentiments changed from indifference and habitual awe, to the state wonderstruck. We didn’t have to voice the beauty of the Park, the sweeping vistas and jagged mountain ranges spoke for themselves.

On our first day in Glacier, our highlight was visiting the Highline Trail at dusk. Although this trail is one of the most popular trails in the park, between the time being 7:30 at night and an approaching thunderstorm, not many people were on the trail. As we reached the trailhead, something spectacular happened. In the first thirty seconds of our hike, we spotted a snowy white mountain goat and her kid grazing in the bushes. Watching them was a unique experience that was unlike any other I had ever had. When we could finally tear our gaze away from the goats, we continued on our hike, which proved to be quite the experience.

The trail seemed to be cut from the bones of the mountain, and skirted around a magnificent valley that brimmed with waterfalls and frozen snow banks. The storm clouds were rapidly engulfing the area, and a torrent of breezes churned the purple and blue froth over the mountains. It was a place of potency and power and paradoxes. It was a place where fire both sentenced death and gave life. Where water was both fervently moving and was becoming crystallized ice. Where sharp cliffs suddenly fell into a smooth valley. Where the landscape could be unyielding and unforgiving yet majestic and awe-inspiring. A place that was both being and becoming. It was a place where words can only describe so much. Seeing it for the first time was akin to being struck by lightning. I didn’t know whether to laugh uncontrollably or cry hysterically, so I did both, and dissolved into tears of joy and peels of laughter. After that experience, we laid low for our second day in the park, only hiking for a portion of the day to Baring, St. Mary and Virginia Falls. However, the events of the next day were memorable to say the least.

We were aware that there were bears in Glacier. We had even seen many of them from our car. Not just any old-bears either. Grizzlies. Commonly a dusted golden brown, but also able to be black and blond, the Grizzly bears are equipped with 4 inch long claws, and can be anywhere between 300 and 1000 lbs., and can be 6 to7 feet standing upright. Anyone with any common sense would agree that this is a fearsome predator. Sure, the park also has frequent black bear sightings, but while in hostile black bear situations, experts say to fight back using anything you can find, while in Grizzly attacks, the smartest thing to do is to play dead. Which was why we weren’t surprised when we spotted a Grizzly bear with her cubs sauntering above our trail. It was a jaw dropping experience. All that went through the beholder’s minds was, “that is a huge bear.” That morning we had awoken at the crack of dawn (actually it was more like 6:15), and packed supplies for a hike to Iceberg Lake, which was at a 10 mile round trip. After watching the bears for a while, we continued on our trek to the lake, and along the way we traveled with some speedy hikers whose bear spray inspired us to keep up with them. We did not have any bear spray, and so we hiked with them in case we strayed upon a bear.

Iceberg Lake was phenomenal. A chilly blue lake with actual icebergs floating in it, it was the perfect place to take a Christmas card photo. Even though the water was freezing, literally, I summoned my courage and waded and climbed onto an ice float, and returned unable to feel anything past my thighs. It was wonderful. However, after leaving Iceberg and heading back on the trail, we were informed by an approaching ranger that the Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel hikes were now closed due to bear activity. This was a shock. We had never heard of a trail being closed because of too many bears. Apparently the bears were coming down on the trails to feed on huckleberries, and one had already charged a group of hikers.

Later that day we enjoyed the beauty of Swiftcurrent Lake and Josephine Lake on a boat tour, and marveled at the surrounding glaciers and snow banks. As the sun set on what would be our last day at Glacier, we realized something: We needed more time in the Crown of the Continent. With this brewing in the back of our minds, we said goodbye to Glacier, although I’m confident it will not be forever.