Wind Cave National Park / Mount Rushmore

The Black Hills of South Dakota let us explore Wind Cave National Park and Mount Rushmore National Monument. We started our exploration with a candlelight tour of Wind Cave, which simulated what it would have been like to explore the cave as visitors did in the 1890s. Sixteen-year-old Alvin McDonald was the earliest explorer of the cave. He mapped several miles of the cave and left a detailed daily journal of what he found. The prominent features in the cave are boxwork, popcorn and frostwork. We weren’t allowed to take any pictures on this two-hour, moderately strenuous tour, but hopefully we will remember how intricate the features were. Following our cave tour we decided to drive around and look for wild animals in the park. After many miles of driving around the rolling grasslands, we saw pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, coyote and many, many bison.

From there we headed to Mount Rushmore. I was really looking forward to seeing the memorial and when we arrived, Eli became extremely excited. At first we didn’t understand why he was so elated. It turned out that he didn’t realize Mount Rushmore was the mountain with president faces carved into it and was expecting to see just another mountain! We visited the museum and walked the trail to see the presidents but unfortunately, just as the night lighting program was about to begin there was an plethora of lightning in the near distance and an impending storm. They cancelled the program but still illuminated the faces of the presidents who represented the birth of the nation, expansion, unification, and conservation. We had a fabulous time in the beautiful black hills seeing the animals, Wind Cave and Mount Rushmore!

Wind Cave National Park
Samantha at the natural cave entrance
Bison
Mount Rushmore
Our family at Mount Rushmore

Glacier, Goats, and Bears, Oh My!

By: Sam

We weren’t sure what to expect as we approached Glacier National Park. When we were planning our stay, we hadn’t done very much research and were almost completely in the dark. However, as we began to explore the landscape that is known as “The Crown of the Continent,” our sentiments changed from indifference and habitual awe, to the state wonderstruck. We didn’t have to voice the beauty of the Park, the sweeping vistas and jagged mountain ranges spoke for themselves.

On our first day in Glacier, our highlight was visiting the Highline Trail at dusk. Although this trail is one of the most popular trails in the park, between the time being 7:30 at night and an approaching thunderstorm, not many people were on the trail. As we reached the trailhead, something spectacular happened. In the first thirty seconds of our hike, we spotted a snowy white mountain goat and her kid grazing in the bushes. Watching them was a unique experience that was unlike any other I had ever had. When we could finally tear our gaze away from the goats, we continued on our hike, which proved to be quite the experience.

The trail seemed to be cut from the bones of the mountain, and skirted around a magnificent valley that brimmed with waterfalls and frozen snow banks. The storm clouds were rapidly engulfing the area, and a torrent of breezes churned the purple and blue froth over the mountains. It was a place of potency and power and paradoxes. It was a place where fire both sentenced death and gave life. Where water was both fervently moving and was becoming crystallized ice. Where sharp cliffs suddenly fell into a smooth valley. Where the landscape could be unyielding and unforgiving yet majestic and awe-inspiring. A place that was both being and becoming. It was a place where words can only describe so much. Seeing it for the first time was akin to being struck by lightning. I didn’t know whether to laugh uncontrollably or cry hysterically, so I did both, and dissolved into tears of joy and peels of laughter. After that experience, we laid low for our second day in the park, only hiking for a portion of the day to Baring, St. Mary and Virginia Falls. However, the events of the next day were memorable to say the least.

We were aware that there were bears in Glacier. We had even seen many of them from our car. Not just any old-bears either. Grizzlies. Commonly a dusted golden brown, but also able to be black and blond, the Grizzly bears are equipped with 4 inch long claws, and can be anywhere between 300 and 1000 lbs., and can be 6 to7 feet standing upright. Anyone with any common sense would agree that this is a fearsome predator. Sure, the park also has frequent black bear sightings, but while in hostile black bear situations, experts say to fight back using anything you can find, while in Grizzly attacks, the smartest thing to do is to play dead. Which was why we weren’t surprised when we spotted a Grizzly bear with her cubs sauntering above our trail. It was a jaw dropping experience. All that went through the beholder’s minds was, “that is a huge bear.” That morning we had awoken at the crack of dawn (actually it was more like 6:15), and packed supplies for a hike to Iceberg Lake, which was at a 10 mile round trip. After watching the bears for a while, we continued on our trek to the lake, and along the way we traveled with some speedy hikers whose bear spray inspired us to keep up with them. We did not have any bear spray, and so we hiked with them in case we strayed upon a bear.

Iceberg Lake was phenomenal. A chilly blue lake with actual icebergs floating in it, it was the perfect place to take a Christmas card photo. Even though the water was freezing, literally, I summoned my courage and waded and climbed onto an ice float, and returned unable to feel anything past my thighs. It was wonderful. However, after leaving Iceberg and heading back on the trail, we were informed by an approaching ranger that the Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel hikes were now closed due to bear activity. This was a shock. We had never heard of a trail being closed because of too many bears. Apparently the bears were coming down on the trails to feed on huckleberries, and one had already charged a group of hikers.

Later that day we enjoyed the beauty of Swiftcurrent Lake and Josephine Lake on a boat tour, and marveled at the surrounding glaciers and snow banks. As the sun set on what would be our last day at Glacier, we realized something: We needed more time in the Crown of the Continent. With this brewing in the back of our minds, we said goodbye to Glacier, although I’m confident it will not be forever.

Eli and Matt hiking around Running Eagle Falls
Sam soaking in the beauty of the Highline Trail.
Baby goat, you’re welcome.
Waiting in the bushes of love.
Eli at Virginia Falls.
Among the huckleberry (bear food) on our way to Iceberg Lake.
Sam on an iceberg at Iceberg Lake.

 

 

San Juan Islands

We had two reasons for visiting the San Juan Islands: visiting family and seeing Orcas. Only the first of those things was easy. We took the ferry from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on Saturday, which was nice because we were able get out of the confining truck for a while. Once on the island, we headed to Snug Harbor Resort where Matt’s parents and sister’s family were waiting for us. This beautiful resort is on Mitchel Bay and has kayaks and paddleboards available. We had a cabin with a kitchen, toilet and, the most important quality at this point in our trip, our own shower! It was like being in a dreamland. The next morning, Saturday, we set off on a six-hour kayak trip in search of Orcas. The waters around the San Juan Islands, the area we kayaked in, are known for having the most Orca sightings than any other area in the world. However, after many hours of kayaking, all our money bought us was a sunburn and a backache. We headed back to the resort to eat, watch some TV (yes! TV!) and sit by the campfire with our family. The next day, the boys explored the island and fished while the girls went to a lavender festival. That afternoon, the kids paddle boarded and kayaked with their cousins, Josh and Katie, while the grown ups played cards, and talked together. On Monday, the boys went fishing at a local pond and afterwards drove to Lime Kiln Point where they saw a few Orcas in the distance! Finally, Matt, after being in Alaska, Antarctica and Washington, got his first glimpse at Orcas! We had a lovely time with Matt’s family. Everyone loved the island, the resort and spending time together. It was difficult to say goodbye to Matt’s parents, but we made plans to see each other again, making the farewell a little less sad.

Looking for Orcas
Samantha and Katie
Eli and Josh

 

Fishing from the dock
Our family!

Crater Lake National Park: Big, Deep and Blue

First impression: That is a very blue lake. Second impression: There are a lot of mosquitos here. Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States and it also boasts being the clearest and cleanest. The basin was once a mountain peak but after a volcanic eruption 7,700 years ago, it became a deep fissure and filled with rain and snow. The day we arrived it was perfectly clear and the views from the Rim Village Visitors Center reminded us of a postcard. After exploring the rim a bit, we headed to the Mazama Campground where we found ourselves immersed in mosquitos. We quickly made dinner and played some inside games. Eli started feeling bad around bedtime and after throwing up a few times, settled down for the night. Early the next morning, we decided to make our way to Cleetwood Cove, which is the only legal place to access the lake. We packed our lunch, fishing pole, and swimsuits and headed down the 1.1-mile trail which dropped 700 feet. I can’t emphasize the beauty of the lake views. We stopped along the trail a few times to try and take it in. It is by far one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve ever seen. At the bottom, we found ourselves excited to jump into the 60 degree lake from a rock ledge! We all jumped. Some of us jumped several times! It was an incredible experience that we won’t soon forget!

Crater Lake
Matt and Eli jumping!
Matt and Korin
Samantha jumping in!

Lassen National Park: Family Camp Along

When we arrived at the Lassen National Park Manzanita Campground we found Grandpa Epp working hard to set up his campsite. We were excited to spend time with him, Nona, Nona’s Great-Granddaughter Jaliya, and their spoiled dog we affectionately call Cousin Bella. We spent the afternoon and evening catching up, exploring the lake, eating dinner, roasting marshmallows and playing games. After a great night sleep and an amazing breakfast, we set off to see the park. Lassen is known for having four different types of volcanoes: cinder cone, shield, composite and plug dome. Mount Lassen erupted in 1914 leaving a destruction zone that we could explore. We also saw two beautiful alpine lakes: Emerald and Helen. The most popular hydrothermal area in the park, Bumpass Hell was closed but we did get to Sulphur Works, which had some boiling mudpots. Before heading back to the campsite, we went on a three-mile hike to Kings Creek Falls. The views of the meadow and waterfall were stunning. As we hiked, I felt incredibly blessed to have the opportunity to see these amazing places and spend quality time with my family. When we got back to our site, Grandpa and Nona had made a steak dinner for us —what a treat! It was the best dinner we’ve had since starting our journey. Around the fire, Grandpa told us stories about camping as a young man while Nona and kids the played Clue. The morning we left, Matt caught a nice brown trout in Manzanita Lake. We had a fabulous time together in a spectacular place and unsurprisingly, it was difficult to say goodbye.

Kings Creek Falls
Campfire Fun!
The whole gang!

RVing VS Camping

Between Great Basin and Lassen, we spent one night in Sparks, Nevada to do laundry, get an oil change and resupply. We stayed at Sparks Marina RV Park where they evaluated our rig to see if it was up to community standards. I think they mentioned no duct-tape, which is actually a problem for us. We were the only tent trailer in a sea of triple axel motorhomes pulling luxury coupes. We decided to come up with a short list about the difference between RVing and Camping.

Top ways you know you’re in a RV park:

  1. You have fake grass next to your concrete pad.
  2. The public bathrooms are super clean because no one uses them.
  3. They give you a list of cable channels when you check in.
  4. You mistake airplanes for stars
  5. There are more rules at check in than in the Bible
  6. You can hear and see your neighbors television
  7. Your neighbors have an outdoor, tabletop cat cage.
Our “campsite”

Great Basin National Park: An oasis in the desert

When we reached the Great Basin Visitors Center it was 101 degrees and the kids were sluggish and complaining. They knew our campsite wasn’t going to have electric, water, flush toilets or showers. Furthermore, the thought of sleeping in hundred-degree weather was daunting, even though Matt assured them that our campsite wouldn’t be hot. After getting information from the ranger and watching the park movie, we drove up the ten-mile Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive, which climbed to 10,000 feet. When we pulled into our campsite it was 51 degrees and raining! The kids were elated and went off to watch two deer in the meadow and explore a nearby stream. The rain continued and we waited it out by playing Hearts inside the trailer. After the rain stopped, we made dinner and hiked around two miles to the grove of Bristlecone Pine trees, the oldest trees in the world. They grow slowly and are highly resinous, which means they have a ton of sap. They also decay very slowly so even after dying, they can still be seen for hundreds of years. When we reached the grove I felt a sense of reverence and inspiration. We saw one living tree that was around 3,200 years old, which means it germinated about the time the Israelites were wandering in Sinai wilderness! Matt gave all of us a science lesson on the trees and as we hiked down, crushing pine needles from several different species while discussing how unique they all smell.

Posing in front of 3,200 year old tree

 

Bristlecone Pine

 

Eli and Sam at Teresa Lake

Off the Beaten Trail: An Adventure in Canyonlands National Park

By Sam

When we pulled into Canyonlands National Park campground, Eli and I immediately started tearing up. Why? Enter Devil’s Garden, the Arches National Park campground, where two years ago Eli and I had hiked giant boulders and cliffs so that we almost touched the sky and scared our parents half to death. Now, we were looking at a campground surrounded by mesas that reminded us of that magical day in Devil’s Garden. So, as soon as we decided on a campsite, Eli and I bolted out of the truck and started climbing the mesas while our parents set up the pop-up.

The most challenging part about climbing those steep red rocks was finding hand and foot holds that allowed minimal risk of injury if we fell. The trick to this was to imagine my mother’s face if I came back with a broken ankle. If I found a route that might be a bit risky, I would keep that image in my mind as I made a decision. Eli and I scampered around the mesa, climbing higher and higher until we were almost blown off the cliffs by the wind.

Unfortunately, as we turned around to head back to the camper, Eli and I realized that we could not remember which direction we had come from. In other words, we were lost. Well, sort of lost. We knew with absolute certainty one direction we had to go: down. So, we painstakingly made our way down from the mesa, trying to remember landmarks and which site the pop-up was in. Eventually, we reached the sweet, sweet ground and made our way through the brush to the road. We galloped down the road until we saw our trailer, and even though we had an exiting time, we were happy that our mesa climbing adventure in Canyonlands was at a close.

Entering the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park
Epic campsite, tempting us to climb!
Samantha and Eli looking back on the campsite from a huge rock. The canyons were calling!

Mesa Verde National Park

In about 1200 A. D. the ancient Puebloans decided to upgrade their living quarters from underground pit houses to impressive cities nestled in cliff alcoves, complete with million dollar views. However, they lived in their creations for only twenty years after the building was finished before mysteriously vanishing from Mesa Verde. This ancient enigma has drawn both scholars and visitors alike to this national park, and has made it a place of wonder. We arrived in Mesa Verde just in time to take the Twilight Tour of Cliff Palace, the largest ancient dwelling in the park. Cliff Palace is thought to have been home to 100 to 130 people. The next morning we toured the Balcony House, which was home to only thirty people. The fact that the Ancient Puebloan people had called Mesa Verde home for 700 hundred years captivated our imaginations as we contemplated the lives of those before us.

 

Cliff Palace
Climbing into Balcony House

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: Humble Thyself

The single most important word to describe Black Canyon of the Gunnison is severe. The national park, which consists of a narrow gorge with steep painted walls and a 2,700-foot drop into the Gunnison River, is characterized by the chilly evenings and burning days of the high altitude desert. After successfully hiking 10 miles in the Rockies at a higher elevation, we were feeling strong and confident that we could handle a simple 2-mile hike down into the Black Canyon.

The Gunnison Route, which is one of the routes down the canyon, drops 1800 feet in one mile and also features an 80-foot chain where climbers have to lower themselves down the canyon. The trail was steep, but was shaded by the towering canyon walls, and we navigated our way to the chain section in about 45 minutes. The chain was a fun challenge and we made it down with only a few scrapes and frustrated groans. After this, the trail consisted of loose gravel and dirt, and we felt as though we were descending a mountain on banana peels with the bruises on our hineys to prove it. At 2 ½ hours into our descent, we heard the Gunnison River roaring like muffled thunder. However, we also noticed our precious shade was receding quickly and temperatures were rising. The trail was taking us much longer than we anticipated and we were facing the possibility of climbing out of the intimidating canyon in the beating sun. Reluctantly, even though we could now see the river, we decided to turn around. On the way back up, we scrambled on all fours, tossing up the loose dirt into the air. The dust cloud we created coated our bodies like cocoa powder, and our tempers were rising with the heat. After twenty minutes of tough scrambling, we realized we had lost the trail back to the canyon rim. We were dirty, tired, hot and lost. We searched for the trail unsuccessfully for 15 minutes. It was time to pray. Just then in the silence of the canyon, Samantha heard hikers about 100 yards to our west. The trail was covered by low-lying brush and we couldn’t see it. We called to the hikers, who waited for us to make our way back onto the trail. Sarah and Matt were ascending the Gunnison Trail and they offered to accompany us back to the rim. We learned that they had started their hike two hours before we did and were already climbing back up to avoid heat exhaustion from the sun. We made it to the top, sweaty, dirty, and humbled.

Standing in front of the canyon
Eli and Samantha climbing down the chain on our hike
Matt and Eli fishing on the Gunnison River